January 19, 2012
Tapas and Pinxtos: Small Plates with Spanish Flare
Looking for some great recipes and information on tapas? Have no idea what they even are? Jeremy Ewing-Chow, RM's Chef de Cuisine, provides us here with some amazing recipes along with a lesson on all things tapas!
Almost every culture has a food tradition of small plates. The Chinese have Dim Sum, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cultures enjoy mezze. Antipasti for the Italians are more than just a salad with olives, cheese and cured meats; the term refers to any number of lighter fares offered before dinner.
Although the exact origins of tapas cannot be nailed down precisely, most historians agree that they originated as small plates of food placed atop glasses of wine or sherry (tapar means “to top” in Spanish). Tapas or Pinxtos (PIN-chos) and the Taparias (local taverns) which serve them are found in every city, town, and village across the country. The variety of these small plates typically reflect the regions where they are found. Spain’s Northern Basque Region is comprised of a long stretch of Atlantic coastline as well as a mountainous, fertile and cool interior. As a result, dishes may include cheeses (particularly goat and sheep’s milk), cured meats, an abundance of seafood, especially salt cod (bacahlau) and octopus, and hearty, braised dishes. Spain’s southern coast including the Costa Brava, Andalucía, and Valencia are typically hot and dry during the summer months and olive groves are much more common than pastures. Here lighter foods are popular. Fresh boquerones or petit sardines are fried crisp and served with a lemon aioli, many varieties of olives can be found, and small plates of paella are typically served with clams and fresh shrimp.
One theme common among just about all tapas is their simplicity. They are the “comfort food” of Spain. Probably one of the most ubiquitous of these offerings is jamon, or cured ham. Spanish jamon Serrano is very similar to Italian prosciutto. Both are salted and cured boneless hams. Serrano, however, is usually cured for a longer period of time and therefore has a deeper flavor.
The true “crown jewel” of Spanish ham is Jamon Iberico. This ham is made exclusively from free-range black footed Iberian pigs and is dry cured on the bone. Curing the ham bone-in requires a longer curing process and results in a more flavorful ham, and a much more robust price tag. Combine a plate of jamon with freshly toasted baguette, cured olives, and a glass of Rioja and enjoy an evening with friends, Spanish style!
Skewered Drunken Goat Cheese Pinxtos
Drunken goat cheese is from Spain’s Murcia Region, located between Andalucía to the southwest and Valencia to its northeast. This semi-soft cheese is soaked in red wine for 2-3 days before being aged for approximately 75 days. This results in a cheese with a mild flavor, smooth texture and blushed violet rind.
- 1# Drunken Goat Cheese, cut into 1” cubes
- 8oz. Roasted Red Peppers (try Piquillo peppers from Spain, if you can find them!)
- Drain peppers and pat dry. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper and cut into 1” pieces
- 1 cup. Good quality pitted olives
- 12-16 4” or 6” skewers
*Skewer first the olive, then the red pepper and finally the cube of goat cheese. The weight of the goat cheese at the bottom of the skewer should allow them to stand up on end for presentation.
Marinated Manchego Cheese
Manchego comes from the La Mancha region of Spain’s midsection. This is a firm sheep’s milk cheese with a slightly piquant flavor and mellow characteristic sheep’s milk aftertaste.
- 1# Manchego cheese, cut into 1” cubes
- ¼ cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil (look for 1st cold pressed to ensure top quality)
- 1 sprig Fresh Rosemary
- 5 cloves Fresh Garlic, lightly crushed
- 3 ea. Bay leaves
- ½ teaspoon Freshly ground black pepper
- ½ teaspoon Kosher salt
*Infuse the olive oil by combining it with the seasonings in a sauté pan and heat just until the oil is hot. Allow to cool to room temperature and toss with the cheese. Let marinate for at least 2 hours before serving.
Pan con Tomate y Jamon: Toasted Baguette with Cured Ham and Vine Ripe Tomatoes
- 1 ea. Fresh baguette, cut on the bias 1” thick (about 16-20 sliced)
- ½ cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
- 6 ea. Fresh Garlic Cloves
- Kosher Salt and Black Pepper to taste
- 3 ea. Vine Ripe Tomatoes, cut in half, then sliced 1/4” thick
- ¼ # Thinly sliced Serrano ham (or good quality prosciutto)
1. Brush bread slices with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and bake for 10-12 minutes or just until golden brown, but not too crispy.
2. Allow to cool slightly then rub with the cloves of garlic. The crusty bread will grind down the garlic clove like sandpaper and impart a fresh, pungent garlic flavor and aroma.
3. When ready to serve, top with a half-moon slice of tomato and a small pile of sliced ham.
4. Drizzle with more olive oil and serve.
